Tutorial: Side Release Metal Buckle

 

I like to experiment with different ways to finish beadwork.  There are a wide variety of closures from different applications and it's fun to use some of these to give a different look.  This time, I am using a silver 20mm / 0.75" side release metal buckle.  I think this sort of buckle is often used for belts.  The buckle is relatively heavy and bulky but it gives a very different look to a bracelet.  If you wear your bracelets loose, then this probably is not a good choice.  This is a very secure closure though, it really is unlikely to come undone by accident.  Be careful not to pinch your skin when putting it on!  I brought mine from Amazon.

These clasps are similar  to slide bar loop clasps in the way you loop the beadwork over.  I like that there is no exposed thread to rub.  The difference is that the clasp requires a longer loop and I also like to join the loop to the beadwork twice to help ensure it is strong and secure, as this clasp is so much heavier. 

I like to finish the existing thread and begin a new thread for the clasp.  This means that if the clasp thread should wear through, the beadwork will remain intact.  Weave any loose ends into the beadwork and finish as you normally would for your choice of thread.  Do not remove the final working thread from the beadwork at this point, in case you need to adjust the bracelet length. 

Pull the beadwork and thread through the clasp.  From this point, the thread is only shown from where it exits the bead as shown by the pink circle.  The bar of this clasp is bulky and mine is more square than round.  Make the loop loose so it is not too tight on the corners of the bar.  Also allow enough beadwork so that you can stitch the beadwork together at two different points.

The picture below shows the attachment points.  The blue beads are sewn together first, then the red beads are sewn together, forming a large loop.  There are 25 rows between the two rows of blue beads and this makes a big loop.  You may need to alter this, depending on the exact dimensions of the clasp.

Working at the end marked start in the diagram above, add a new thread and exit the turquoise bead highlighted in the blue row of beads near the end of the beadwork in the close up below. To do this, exit the bead below the turquoise bead on the outside of the beadwork then thread through the turquoise bead from the outside of the beadwork, inwards.

Then thread the beadwork through the hole in one end of the clasp.  Make sure you have the short end on the under side of the clasp so that when you create the loop, the joins and any interruption to the pattern are on the under side of the finished bracelet where they will be less visible.

From the turquoise bead, bring the thread over the top of the bar of the clasp and through the bead highlighted green, going from the inside to the outside.  Pulling it tight will fold the beadwork over the bar.  You want to pull your thread tight as you go, but for ease of producing pictures, I don't show the beadwork as folded while zipping the blue beads together.

Thread back through the turquoise bead, from the edge of the beadwork, inwards.

From the turquoise bead, which is the first bead of the upper blue row, thread through the bead highlighted green in the picture below, which is the first bead of the lower blue row.

Then take the thread back up through the turquoise bead in the diagram below, which is the second bead of the upper blue row.  Bring the thread down and through the green bead, which is the second bead in the lower blue row.

Continue zipping up, alternating between the next bead of the upper blue row and the next bead of the lower blue row.

Finish off zipping up the blue row, ensuring you have pulled the thread tight so the beadwork is folded.  Thread through the purple bead from the edge of the beadwork.  You need to make sure the thread exits on the outside of the loop, not in the middle of the beads in the zipped up area.

From this point, the beadwork is shown as being folded.  We are looking down on to the join, so this will be the side closest to your wrist and any discontinuity of the pattern will not be on view.  I have not matched them exactly, so that you can see all of the beads previously highlighted red.  The upper piece of beadwork that has folded down is showing as a light cream or peach colour.  The lower red row is now orange to make it easier to differentiate.

Thread through to the other side of the beadwork, between the blue and red rows.  Exit from the edge of the beadwork and stitch into the first bead of the red row, highlighted dark red.

Thread through the bead under the dark red bead, you might be able to see it in the diagram below, just peaking out towards the edge of the beadwork.  Then go back through the dark red bead.

Do this again!  This is because this will be the most exposed part of the join.  This means, pass through the bead under the dark red bead then the dark red bead again.  

Now start zipping the orange and red beads together.  Thread through the bead highlighted yellow below.

Next go through the bead highlighted dark red, then the bead highlighted yellow in the diagram below.

Continue zipping up the beadwork, alternating between the next red bead and the next orange bead until you reach the edge of the beadwork.  Finish by passing through the bead highlighted purple, from the edge of the beadwork inwards.

Loop back through the yellow bead and through the purple bead, then the yellow bead again.

Then weave away your thread and finish in your normal way.

Having done one end, put the two parts of the clasp together.  Check the length of the bracelet by placing it around your wrist and then thread the other end of the beadwork through the other side of the clasp.  If you need to add more rows to form a loop the same as at the other end of the clasp, this is the time to add more rows!  Finish off the working thread once you are happy with the length.

Add a new thread as you did at the other end of the beadwork and create a loop attaching the other end of the beadwork to the second bar of the clasp.  Make sure the second join is on the same side of the beadwork as the first and will be on the underside of the bracelet.  The photo below shows the under side of the clasp, where the joins are. 

Then you are finished!