Weave any loose ends into the beadwork and finish as you
normally would for your choice of thread.
Do not remove the final working thread from the beadwork at this point,
in case you need to adjust the bracelet length.
For this bracelet I used a copper toggle clasp and connected it to the beadwork using beaded loops. This version is based on a piece of beadwork with 28 columns of beads but can be adapted for pieces with multiples of 4 columns, so 4, 8, 12, 16,20, 24, 28 etc. In this design, the beaded loops twist slightly to allow the clasp to lie flat.
I like to finish the existing thread and begin a new thread
for the clasp. This means that if the
clasp thread should wear through, the beadwork will remain intact.
Working at the end marked start in the diagram above, add a
new thread and exit the bead highlighted in the close up below.
Thread through to the first bead of the last row and thread through it, keeping threading through until the thread exits the beadwork as shown below for a piece of beadwork 24 columns wide.
For beadwork of other widths, look at the high beads at the end of the beadwork, identify the two middle high beads in the row, the loop will be anchored to the high beads adjacent to these two middle high beads.
Pick up twelve beads, I picked up 2C, 2D, 2A, 2B, 2C, 2D but you can change this as required.
Thread the main part of the toggle clasp onto the thread so that the beads pass through the hole of the clasp. If necessary, add a jump or split ring between the beads and the clasp if the hole in the clasp is too small for the beads to pass through. Stitch back into the main beadwork as shown below, so that beaded loop is formed with the clasp on the loop. It’s better to have the clasp connecting on to the beads than on to the thread as the beads will wear more slowly than the thread.
Stitch through to the end of the row.
Stitch back through the beadwork and go through the loop again before going to the end of the row and then finishing the thread as you began. The thread path is now shown in blue.
At this point, I like to put the two halves of the clasp together and check the length of the bracelet. If necessary, use the working thread to add more rows and then finish the thread.
* * * * *
Add a new thread to the other the other end of the beadwork
to add the toggle of the clasp.
Stitch through the beadwork until you exit it as shown below for beadwork 24 columns wide or from the two middle high beads.
Add sixteen beads to the thread. The toggle needs to have enough length to reach through the main part of the clasp. I added 2C, 2D, 2A, 2B, 2C, 2D, 2A, 2B but this can be altered as required.
Attach a jump or split ring to the toggle (mine came with one attached). Pass the needle through the ring and then pass the needle back in to the main piece of beadwork as shown below.
Split rings require a special tool to open easily but this
means there is no chance of things slipping through gaps accidentally. If you use jump rings open them with pliers,
by moving one end to the side as this does not stretch the ring and allows it
to be easily closed by flattening it with pliers.
Thread through to the end of the row.
Take the thread back through the beadwork, going through the bead loop a second time before finishing the row and then finish the thread. The thread path is now shown in blue.
